LAND OF LAKES

It’s hot! The two best places to be in a heat wave are in the mountains or at a lake. Fortunately, Lake Ohrid (bordering Albania and Macedonia) offers both.

I met Erica at the Radomira Hotel in Radomire, Albania where I camped out for the Mt. Korab hike. I was hanging out on the patio of the hotel when someone calls asking if I’m Gabriele. What! It turns out that Erica, who lives in Oregon, is on my email list and is bicycling the TransDinarica! She and a friend arrived to hike Mt. Korab and stopped at the Radomira Hotel at the exact time I’m here. What are the chances of that happening?

Erica and I meet up again in Peshkopi, Albania where we have more time to catch up on each other’s adventures. She retired from the fire department where she was a captain at the end of 2024. Erica has always been an avid traveler and sport enthusiast. Bicycling is one of her passions.

We agree to meet up again at Lake Ohrid in Macedonia. I meet Erica at the St. Naum Monastery where we load up her bike and gear, and have coffee. Erica is happy to have a lift up and over the Galicica Mountain in this hot weather. I also give a lift to Franscisco, from Brazil, who is here for paragliding. We drop him off at the summit where he joins a friend for take-off and they glide over Lake Ohrid. It looks so peaceful and relaxing! (the video is on my Instagram)

Erica and I continue on to Camp Ambassador, near Bitola where the next day we hike in Pelister National Park. What a lovely place! It is so well maintained and has big beautiful pine trees. The park is famous for the Molika species of pine that has five needle leaves. It is cool and the air is so refreshing in the forest!

LAKE OHRID

Erica flies to Portugal to do some surfing and escape the heat wave. I drive to the southwestern part of Lake Ohrid. This special lake is so deep that it is always cool and is crystal clear all the way to the bottom. I swim twice a day because It is such a pleasure. I also meet the coolest camp dog - I name her ‘Queenie’ because her manner is so regal.

I meet Garin and Marije who tell me that the big traditional wedding celebration, held once a year in Galichnik, is this coming weekend … so it’s time to move on. One lucky couple who has ties to Galichnik is selected from a pool of applicants. I stay at Lake Ohrid four nights and am sad to leave.

LAKE MAVROVO

Heading north, the next place I visit is Lake Mavrovo. It is a man-made lake with a dam, nice rental homes and a monastery on one side, and mostly forest on the other side. As I drive around the lake, I see a curious structure that looks like a space age lighthouse. I check it out and then continue down towards the lake, end up staying in an alcove for the night, watching sheep and meeting four friendly sheep dogs.

LAKE KOZJAK

I’m curious what lake I can find next, so I check the map and see Lake Kozjak and head there. This is another man-made lake surrounded by canyons. There is a several mile descent before a flat area where I can camp above the lake. I enjoy watching the full moon rising over the mountain. The next morning on waking, I hear a whimper. I look out and there is a very sweet dog who is very hungry… I feed him three times.

I notice a van going down to the restricted area where the dam is. I can’t just leave Charlie (who I’ve now named) in the middle of nowhere. I drive farther down where I see three men working. They speak English so I ask if they would be willing to drop off food to Charlie on their way in and out. As if on queue, Charlie trots up to us and I introduce him. I sweeten the deal by offering the 30lb bag of dog food I have in the van. They agree. They already have a female dog with two puppies. Charlie meets her and is happy to be with all of them… And just like that Charlie has a new home!

A WILD DRIVE

Tony, the lead engineer in the group of men working at the dam, asks where I’m heading and which way I’m going. My plan is to head for the next lake on the map - direction southwest. Tony calls a friend, and confirms the route I’m taking is open for only 45 more minutes, before it is closed to traffic heading in the direction I’m going. I say my goodbyes to Charlie and the men wave me off.

I drive as fast as I safely can. The second road I take, which runs through the Jensen Nature Preserve, is single narrow descending lane and is very windy. I don’t want to meet any oncoming cars! I hurry down and though it is beautiful with pine trees all around and great views at clearings, I don’t have time to linger. (The wild drive video is on my Instagram).

I emerge to a peaceful drive on a wide road. I see a sign for a monastery and right next to it is a small roadside church. There is a man outside so I pull in to ask him about the monastery. He doesn’t speak English but he introduces me to Peter who is a fresco artist painting the interior of the small church. Peter is a self taught, talented artist from Struga who comes up during the week to work on the chapel where Mr. Blazho is the contractor. We chat and he recommends visiting the Porech Monastery up the road. So I go there on another narrow road with hair pin turns and a steep ascent.

On the way back I stop again at the little church. Peter and I chat some more and Peter tells me about Peshna Cave down the road. We go to the cave which is huge and feels very ancient. We imagine past inhabitants.

Its getting late so Peter offers me an overnight parking spot in Mr. Blasho’s yard. I readily accept as I don’t want to tackle anymore hairpin turns today. Mr. Blasho gives me a tour of his garden and we watch the neighbor plowing up potatoes.

I AM VERY LUCKY!

I attend the famous traditional wedding in Galichnik, Montenegro. It only happens once a year over 2 days in mid July. The selection process is competitive and the couple must have some connection to the town.

The photos show: the setting, the women’s costume, the mother in law dance, the musicians, the audience, shaving of the groom, bride collecting water, fetching the bride from her home, the pastor, the church ceremony, the children and the traditional dances! The festivities, the music and atmosphere are over the top spellbinding.

I camp at a horse farm where horses, goats and sheep dogs regularly pass by.