BULGARIA
Progress! After the visiting the vet to get Bella all her shots along with the 21 day waiting period for the rabies shot and the ensuing visit to the bureaucrats for the final health certificate, we were ready to cross the border into Bulgaria. Bulgaria is now part of the EU and follows their regulations, so I was pretty sure we would be jumping through hoops of one kind or another. When we did reach the border, no one checked Bella’s paperwork and it was EZ PZ!
RILA NATIONAL PARK
Rila Nation Park is the Bulgaria’s largest national park and contains its highest peak. The Seven Lakes Rila hike is iconic for its views. We didn’t take that trek because a chairlift is involved - which would not go well for Bella. We did take a steady ascending hike in the fog up to the Riska Skakavitsa Waterfall and on the way back a light rain accompanied us. It was quiet and refreshing.
RILA MONASTERY
Rila Monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage site, is “the largest and most famous Eastern Orthodox monastery in Bulgaria”. It was founded by St. John of Rila, a hermit, who lived in a cave near the monastery. There are intricate frescoes in the monastery that tell many stories. The monastery is also known for its white cheese and yogurt production which I shared with Bella.
I stumbled onto this cool little bungalow on an abandoned property next to where I parked for a night. It too was painted with stories. It would be great to know the meaning of them!
PIRIN NATIONAL PARK
Next to Banderitsa Restaurant & Camping (known for its trout and free cemping) is Baikushev’s Pine - a tree believed to be over 1,300 years old. The base reminds me of an elephant legs and if we could understand the tree’s language, it would have plenty of stories to tell us.
DOSPAT RESEVOIR & TRIGRAD GORGE
Dospat Reservoir, the second largest in Bulgaria, is located in the Rhodope Mountains and is a popular spot for fishing and camping. We arrive late in the day, navigating a rough road, to find a pull-in spot next to the lake. A fisherman proudly shows me his best catch of the day.
We did a drive through of Trigrad Gorge, a narrow five mile road with towering cliffs on both sides along the Trigrad River. Devil’s Throat Cave is a popular tourist attraction along this route.
ANIMALS ALONG THE WAY
STRANDZHA NATURE PARK
Strandzha Nature Park is the largest protected area in Bulgaria. It spans 448 square miles and has a lot of hiking trails! I went to the village of Miladezhko where there is a short trail and an abundance of drinking water. I could even attach my hose to the fountain in the town square and fill my van’s water tank.
We spent the night, off the long access road, at a quiet spot next to a creek. The next day, I found an interesting looking hike that ended up being 10 miles up, and back, on wide well marked trails. It took me along a creek with several crossings on abandoned bridges. After five hours of hiking, I was looking forward to a forest shower with refreshing water pouring over me, and eating a delicious hazelnut butter and pistachio cream sandwich on dense German grain bread.
To my surprise, I was greeted at my parking spot by three armed policemen. When they asked what I was doing, I immediately dropped all the spent plastic bottles I collected on the hike and handed over my passport. I said “I’m hiking and this is public land, correct?” They respond “Yes” and that they told me they are “Border Patrol and this is an area where illegal immigrants cross through.”
They check the inside of my van and my passport. I’m good to go now. One officer recommends not spending the night here and suggests staying closer to town. I decide to go to the Dokuzak Waterfall. On the way, I notice a middle age woman walking with difficulty. I immediately pull over and offer her a ride.... and she accepts. She is carrying a bunch of handpicked wildflowers. My kind of person! Using the map, I explain that I’m going to the waterfall. When we get close, she motions that she can get out. I motion if she is going farther. “Yes.” I let her know I will take her to her destination. It’s a two mile drive up a mountain to a cute little village.
I learn my passenger’s name is Maria, and she lets me take her picture. After I drop her off I drive through town to take pictures. On my way out, she is standing by the road and motions for me to stop. She hands me a shawl! So sweet! An all around connection of gratitude!
I drive at least another hour north, thinking I will be out of the Border Patrol’s range. I see on Mapy.com the symbol for a pavilion. I head there for overnight parking. I pass where the pavilion should be, turn around and then turn around again, and apparently, it doesn’t exist. As I’m backing out onto the road, a vehicle blocks me. It’s the Border Patrol! This time it’s two officers and one stands ready with his rifle. Again: passport check and open the van for checking.
Border Patrol tells me to go past the town of Izgrev. It’s outside the Nature Preserve boundary and I’m really sad to be passing potentially amazing hiking trails. Nevertheless, I go a ways past Izgrev. It is now 9pm and dark, and I don’t want to drive anymore. I find a spot down a dirt road where I settle in for the night - glad to be away from the patrols.
Surprisingly, the next morning another Border Patrol officer drives up and says: “Why are you here? Go!” I reply that I’m enjoying nature and will head out as soon as I finish my breakfast. I’m not getting their attitude towards me.
KAMCHIA RESERVE
Onward…. Gaia GPS shows a Reserve 40 minutes south of the city of Varna called Kamchia Reserve aka ‘The Forest”. As soon as I drive in, I feel a huge sense of relief. It has an old pine tree planting, soft pine needle ground, and just enough shade and airflow. A young man wielding a knife points to a parking spot. I go a little farther where I can park facing the beach. After settling in, I go over and introduce myself to Emil who is a chef, hence the knife. I meet his partner Catalina. They are from Romania and immediately invite me to dinner. Catalina makes awesome cocktails and Emil is a master at fish from the Black Sea. We are joined by Viktor, Bobo, Gigi and Bojo, and Maria with her dog Ira, who is now Bella’s new best friend. They all live in Varna.
It is an interesting group. They have been coming here for years - Viktor (aka The Mayor) first camped here 17 years ago. Everyone is very laid back, fun loving and caring. I end up staying five nights.
I go into the Black Sea early in the mornings to start my day refreshed, then head to northern part of the forest to cut invasive ivy from grand oak trees. This is followed with another dip in the sea, and picking up beach trash on my way back. I can strap two big trash bags to my little fold up bike. This satisfies my German task-master self and my sense of daily purpose. Each evening I’m invited to dinner by someone in the group. I have a good balance of solitary time and social time.
NORTHEAST BULGARIA
I give another Emil, from Varna, a ride to the city. Emil is so kind and he expertly repairs my badly broken taillight with tape, and paints it to match.
Bella and I spend the night near the watchtower overlooking Golden Sands Beach. I get up early enough to watch the sunrise. We take a relaxing hike in Zlatni Pyasatsi Nature Park and end the morning with a visit to the Aladzha Monastery next door.
Continuing up the coast of the Black Sea, we stop at Cape Kaliakra, and farther north views of the Tyulenovo Cliffs with moon and sun rises.
A KITE FESTIVAL!
I settle into a overnight spot next to Little Sea Beach. The next day a tractor shows up and drops off a big trash container and bags filled with sand. I inquire. They tell me the Kite Festival starts tomorrow, Saturday, and goes for two days. The sand bags are for anchoring the kites. I was planning to head to Romania the next day but not any more!
I meet my camping neighbors Mark & Raluca with their daughter Maya from Romania. They introduce me to their neighbors, Katalin, Atilla and their daughter and the last camper in the row belongs to Putyi with his dog Oti, all from Romania. Atilla prepares dinner which includes pasta with his home made goat cheese. We have foraged figs for dessert. We toast our luck for landing here during the kite festival. Bella is happy to have a playmate.
Up next, Romania...