THETH NATIONAL PARK

What a drive! I enter Albania on the SH20 tackling the famous Serpentine road and then SH21 through the Accursed Mountains with its sharp turns and constant climbing and a final descent to Theth.

I was in Theth last year, when my group did a very steep descending hike to the Blue Eye lagoon. I twisted my knee and couldn’t do the Theth-Valbone hike with the hostel group. This year, after finding a camp spot, hanging out with a farmer - and giving cutting hay with a scythe a try, I am ready to tackle the hike to the Valbone Pass. The ascent takes four hours, on a gravel path that winds through the woods. I emerge from the trees to a 360 degree view of mountain peaks! The descent only takes 2.5 hours. I am happy for the mountain spring that fills up my water bottles on the way up and the way babk down.

Having an evening visit with the cutest puppies at a local church tops off my day. I appreciate the reflection of the mountains in the church entryway, and I feel invited to pause and give gratitude for such an amazing journey.

Albania greets me with a twisting uphill road where I notice two women on bicycles who appear to be cycling effortlessly. I roll down my window to cheer them on. When I stop at a camp spot in a valley later in the day, the women pull in shortly after me to say hello. They are such badass bicyclists... I’m driving, they are biking... yet they keep up with me!

The cyclists are Natalie and Kaitlyn from Colorado. This is their first bike-packing tour outside the U.S. and they are tackling the Accursed Mountains! I learn the third person on their team, Grace, had the hub on her front wheel seize up and is now in the next town down the road. They are continuing on to meet up with her. I offer to pick up Grace and her bike in the morning. Their goal is to reach Boge and then Theth. I’m grateful to have a van that accommodates Grace’s bike.

I spend the next two days traveling with this group. Grace is such a pleasure to have deep conversations with while traveling in the van. They all have such can-do energy, and I know they will accomplish great things in the future. We all do the Theth-Valbone Pass hike, and the next day we load up all three bikes in the van and drive to Shkoder. In the last photo, everyone has an EZ-PZ hat or visor and they have presented me with a very creative card that closes in the shape of a skirt!

Another serpentine road leads me to the interior of Albania with 40 miles of hugging the mountainside taking me through conifer forests and where I can see the road carved out on the next mountains. Towards the end of the day I take a wrong exit which leads me to a perfect spot to spend the night along the Drin River near Kukes.

The next day offers a beautiful, leisurely drive and I pull into a flat spot with a great 360 degree view to just hang out. If you hang out long enough, interesting people always seem to show up. Sure enough, four bicyclists stop and we get to chatting. Lina and Max are from Munich, Germany and Lesa and Nicolas are from Frieburg, Germany. The two couples are bicycling the Trans Dinarica Route and just met.

Lisa & Nicolas mention they are stopping in Radomire for the night, and in the morning are hiking Mt. Korab, the highest peak in Albania and North Macedonia! Mt. Korab is not a national park so it didn’t show up on my list. After the couples bicycle onwards, I immediately check it out and head there too. I end up at the Radomira Hotel where Billy, the manager lets me park overnight and use the facilities. He spent time in England, returned a few years ago, and is now taking the lead with his parents and brother in expanding the hotel with an eco-tourism focus. His mother is the landscaper and gardener which makes this hotel a stand out experience.

MOUNT KORAB

Mt. Korab stands at 9068’ high. According to Gaia GPS, I climbed 4,870’ and hiked over 13 miles. The path up is a straight steady and easy ascent. The return path is a long loop that involves a lot of climbing over rocks. Both paths are full of wildflowers!

SHEBENIK NATIONAL PARK

Shebenik National Park made my list of places I want to see as it is famous for its beech forest. On the way is Ruloc Camping and I want to check out their lake, not intending to stay the night. After a great conversation with Neri, the manager about their eco-tourism plans, I don’t leave for another four days! The owners are so welcoming and it feel like I am part of the family. I give myself beautification tasks each day and enjoy becoming involved in the farm routine which includes a daily swim and afternoon coffee with a shot or two or more of Rakija, the local spirit made from fruit.

Neri returned to the farm after living overseas and now wants to take the family lead in developing the farm for eco-tourism. He came back speaking four more languages: he can make anyone feel at home! Neri leads tours up into the mountains while the property offers lake swimming, farm stays and has a cute cafe for drinks.

His hardworking and fun loving team includes Efi - his partner, Marita - his mom and Dori - his uncle. It is a sign of respect and acknowledging his years of experience that they start the day meeting with Neri’s grandfather.

Marita prepares wonderfully fresh and tasty food, which includes Burek with greens from the garden, omelets from their chickens eggs, and crepes with filled with homemade fig jam and goat cheese from a neighbor’s herd. Efi makes a melt-in-your-mouth chocolate squares dessert.

We visit the goat farm next door during milking, I get so see a newborn calf and we undertake a forest road 4 x 4 vehicle tour into the beech forest!